Sihanoukville is an averaged size town on the coast of Cambodia, four hours from the capital. Most know it as the town of the endless beach party where foreigners and city dwellers come to drink and swim. When you first arrive to the central part of town it bustles with
tuk tuks,
motos, vans packed with people and random items, noises in every direction, bombarding offers for a ride, and smells that either entice you or make you gag. It is hot and dry, dust rises from the ground and settles on your feet permanently. South of town caters to the westerners; guesthouses, bars, massages, Internet,
moto rentals, and Serendipity beach which has lost any amount of quaintness due to the over development of bars and restaurants. At night it glistens with lanterns, candles, twinkle lights, fire dancers, cheap cocktails and beer, and incredibly tasty barbecued seafood. If you walk far enough, you can find a quiet spot under a tree for a good sunbathe, a few chapters in a book, and a warm swim. If you can accept the heat,
Otres beach is a 1km walk east and is the quietest of the five beaches in
Sihanoukville.
Cambodia is full of contradictions and Sihanoukville is a great place to observe them. Cambodia is in the beginning stages of rebuilding a country completely devastated by one of the worst genocides in recent history. The country struggles with a very weak infrastructure, farm land still loaded with landmines, only a third of the population with access to clean drinking water, and an almost non-existent presence of people over the age of 50, all of which make Cambodia one of the poorest countries in Asia. It is customary for every traveler to witness the unbelievable challenge of being poor in a country that maintains the status of the "have" and "have not's". It is easy to see this in Sihanoukville because it is a tourist destination; there are the hotels that cost $200 dollars a night with shacks behind them that house a family of 13, there are the 'felangs' on the beach who spend $10 dollars a night on booze which would feed a family for a month, but can't be bothered by the beggars on the beach, and there is the obvious proof of who has money by how large your belly is (at least that is what one local pointed out to me).
I was not particularly impressed with the town when I arrived but my purpose here has given be a sense of home. I came to Sihanoukville to volunteer for the Cambodian Children's Painting Project; a non-profit who's objective is to provide vulnerable children with an opportunity to develop their creative skills while having a safe and educational way of making money for their families by selling their paintings in the gallery. Most our kids used to make money by selling bracelets and fruit on the beach, collecting cans, or simply begging. They mainly come from very poor homes and communities that struggle with alcoholism, lack or parental guidance (or parents at all), little to no education, no clean drinking water, inadequate shelter, and inconsistent access to food. Despite their hardships, they show up to CCPP with beautiful bright faces, playfulness, laughter, talent, affection, and a eagerness to paint and sell! The children are so open; their faces glow with their wide smiles, dark sparkling eyes, and eagerness to have fun, be held and acknowledged. They show up in the same torn and stained clothes, mostly with empty bellies, little to no sleep, yet they shine with an unbelievable lightness towards their circumstance. They have a huge responsibility to make an income for their families and at CCPP they can sometimes earn more money than any other family member. It is very heart warming to hear them say they want to be artists when they are older; I just let them know that they already are!
Everyday we have two painting sessions, a English or computer class, lunch, and games. The idea is that they go to school and than come and paint but that is not always the case. There is a rice program for some of the families that offer a week's worth of rice under the condition that the parents send their kids to school and not the streets to sell, especially at night when they are most vulnerable. There is a social worker here who does family and school visits to make sure they are attending. For the most part the kids do go, mainly to learn English, in hope that it will lead to a job. My days are mixed with setting up the paints, preparing boards to paint on, steaching canvas, sewing torn clothes, helping with the English class, sitting on the floor playing games, filing paintings, selling their artwork, building frames, organizing the studio and art materials, helping the kids draw, serving lunch, cleaning, and having fun with the kids on field trips to the beach, the temple, nearby towns, and the movies. I had mix feelings about the work and organization when I started but as my relationship with the children has grown and my connection with a few of them has blossomed, I feel incredibly lucky to have had this experience.
As my days in Sihanoukville are near to an end, I have been reflecting on all that I have learn here, enjoyed here, and will always remember. I will miss buying groceries at the chaotic market in town, the giggles of tuk tuk drivers as they ask if I need a ride, the children on bikes that yell "CCPP!!!!" as I pass them on the streets, the hot and humid nights on the balcony playing cards and drinking, getting to know our neighbors and shopkeepers, buying strong ice coffee from the garage out back, barbecued seafood, sunset walks....and the hope that I have made an impact on the children here as much as they have on me. It will be very difficult to say goodbye...
